Rainer Zerbst, in his 2005 catalog of the great Catalan architect Antoni GaudÃ, recounts Albert Schweitzer’s visit to what would eventually become the BasÃlica de la Sagrada FamÃlia, that soaring masterpiece in Barcelona. Gaudà explained to the great doctor and Christian scholar that “When it became known that I was looking for a donkey as a model for the flight to Egypt, they brought me the most beautiful donkey in Barcelona. But I couldn’t use it.†The architect goes on to explain that he eventually found an appropriate donkey, “Its head hanging down, almost touching the ground,†hitched to the wagon of a woman selling scouring sand. That donkey, or at least a casting of that donkey, can be seen today on the basilica’s Portal of Hope, the story of Jesus, the refugee child, crossing a border with his mother and father. Today, he would have been seized and lost in the for-profit detention complex.
Like many other masterpieces, like Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa or Michelangelo’s David, Sagrada FamÃlia is both a blessing and a curse to the locals, the love and hate of every community that depends on tourists and visitors to drive the local economy. My last trip to Barcelona was in 2012, during Hurricane Sandy, though work on the basilica has progressed rapidly in recent years, so there is much to see when I next return. Construction was first started in 1882, but was delayed for many years by lack of funding, for this was to be a work of the common people, not of the wealthy elite. Today, thousands of international tourists and pilgrims pour through the door each day, paying fees, purchasing merchandise, and making donations. We can hope that, despite Catalan nationalism, the project will never again be delayed by politics, by civil war, for these too stood in the way.
In another life, I might have been an architect, for I love buildings, though Gaudà might seem an odd choice when compared to my other favorites, Frank Lloyd Wright and Frank Gehry. I am definitely more mid-century Modern than Neo-Gothic, more sweeping curves, cantilever, and clean line than the near rococo detail of GaudÃ. Yet I love Sagrada FamÃlia. It may help that Gaudà drew his forms from nature, and I love nature. Or maybe it is the fact that the entire basilica is a story told in architecture, the story of salvation and Christ, every element symbolic, right down to the number of towers, every color considered carefully, and I am love story, the story of a living faith expressed with exuberance into the world. Continue reading “Simple + : August 12, 2018”