Cooking was having a cultural moment even before the number of media platforms went haywire. There are still traditional cookbooks, selling like hotcakes to people who allegedly don’t even cook. Then there are the 23 or so cooking channels on your cable box or streaming service. And let’s not get started on the websites and the YouTube channels, the significant ink given over to cooking in our newspapers of record like the New York Times. There are films, from Jon Favreau’s aptly named “Chef” to “Julie and Julia,” based on the real life work of Julie Powell, who shockingly died just over a week ago.
Cooking even gets featured in current affairs, from the tragic suicide of the chef and adventurer Anthony Bourdain to the humanitarian work and political daring of Jose Andreas, the native Spaniard, naturalized American, whose work includes World Central Kitchen and a pugilistic relationship with our last president. Since 2010, World Central Kitchen has responded to countless natural disasters, set up kitchens during the pandemic, and is currently operating eight sites on the border between Poland and Ukraine.
Meanwhile, Ievgen Klopotenko is cooking away at his restaurant in Kyiv. As reported by Charlotte Higgins for The Guardian, he was first known for cultural openness, a sort of Ukrainian Jamie Oliver trying to make school lunches more nutritious and more appealing, including the introduction of foreign dishes like curry, shepherd’s pie, and mac and cheese. Today, he focused on native dishes, and fighting Putin’s attempt to erase Ukrainian culture the best way he knows how, from the kitchen.
For all of its problems, and there are plenty of them, one of the gifts of globalization has been culinary diversity. I have the French cookbook on the shelf, but it is joined by books full of curries, Moroccan dishes, street food from African and Asia, and of course, the American South. We’ve come a long way since Julia Child premiered her show “The French Chef” the year I was born.
Home cooking has largely evolved with technology, as storage and transportation allowed us access to foods we might have never encountered, much less attempted on our own. Restaurant cooking had one major revolution, when Auguste Escoffier brought his military experience to bear on the organization of the kitchen at César Ritz’s Savoy in London, creating the “brigade de cuisine” that is still used to this day, more than a century later. Escoffier was thoroughly corrupt and absolutely genius, so significant a figure in the culinary world that he becomes Auguste Gusteau in Pixar’s 2007 film “Ratatouille.”
Of course, food is a faith issue, and I’m not just talking about to sometimes quirky dietary restrictions that developed in ancient times or the notion that gods eat and therefore require food sacrifices, whether the one God of the monotheisms or the many gods of polytheistic and ancestor-worshipping religions. Though I do always get a kick out of the suggestion that the original grain offering to Yahweh was actually beer.
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